Days 24 - 26 Kathmandu - " Time to relax " !

3 days to unwind and enjoy the many luxuries denied us during our 20 day trek - hot water, warm weather, western food and toilets that aren't frozen and flush !

The 15 minute walk from our Hotel to the Thamel provided most of our daily entertainment, passing the crowd of taxi drivers clamouring for business and our friendly Indian T shirt establishment where the owner has sucked us into buying enough T Shirts from our 3 visits to Nepal to open our own T Shirt shop in Melbourne !

Pedestrian crossings also provide an interesting challenge with relentless traffic providing little respite for pedestrians often requiring a well judged run too the middle section and appropriate nerves of steel !

The Thamel is a labrynith of alleyways inhabited by numerous hawkers, hundreds of trekking shops and a number of well established restaurants and coffee shops that provide a much needed fix to deal with the hub and bub of Kathmandu !

The uniqueness of Kathmandu is the type of foreign tourist it seems to attract - some young some old, but most looking new age hippies escaping from stress of the real world !





















One of the coolest places near the Thamel is the Garden of Dreams.These beautifully manicured gardens not only provide a soothing flavour for Kathmandu but also serve as a rendezvous for many young Nepalese with its nooks and crannies allowing dating couples to escape the constant monitoring by family and friends !

Our favorite evening during our 3 days was no doubt that spent with family of our good friend Birbal and our guide Deepak.

As well as being feted with drinks and dinner Vishnu, Birbals wife, had kindly made us some lovely handmade gifts (hat included) for ourselves and our Grandson .... Thank you Bishnu !

Amazingly we exited the premises after dinner to find our taxi driver still waiting patiently for our return some 3 hours after he'd dropped us off - all for a return fare of $5 plus of course a well earned tip !

Our final night was to return to the Raddison hotel for our traditional end of trip buffet which on my last trip succeeded in sending me straight to the toilet after 20 + days of eating trekking food.

This time it was easy on the western desserts as we savoured our last dinner in Nepal and reminisced on all of the incredible highlights of this trip, including Monikas effort to get to base camp !

Nepal ... Till next time !

Day 23 - Kathmandu - "Back in Town"!

We awoke with some dismay to view the gathering clouds around Lukla knowing full well that flights in or out were weather dependent and in one case in November 2 years back, postponed for an agonizing 7 consecutive days !

We had breakfast at our guest house overlooking the main runway and were relieved to at least to see  a trickle of flights landing on this amazing runway - 20 metres wide, 460 metres long, a 15 % slope and a Mtn at the end of the strip that worked very effectively as a full stop !

Sadly Lukla has seen 3 tragedies over the years giving the airport the title as one of the most dangerous in the world !

Although delayed, people were slowly getting out on flights so just after 9.a.m we took the long 100 meter walk to the departures section of the terminal

Organised chaos would best describe the check in process and we were soon allocated flight number "3" signalling that it would be the 3rd Tara Airlines flight to depart Lukla that morning.

Security was amiable if not thorough, with the guy I presented my carry on bag to suggesting that i had books in my bag without opening or scanning the bag - when I said cameras , he replied "yes books" and allowed me to continue !

Without announcements of any kind we waited for another 3-4 hours as the 3rd Tara Dornier 229 plane arrived only to be told (without explanation) that it was in fact Tara flight number 4 - go figure !!

Watching these small planes being unloaded provided at least some form of entertainment as everything from sacks of rice to engine blocks appeared to be carried by these 14 seater planes to supply nearby local villages ! Up to 100 flights a day can occur during the peak season !

Finally with the weather beginning to close in No. 3 finally arrived and in the Lukla tradition kept an engine running while the plane was offloaded and then loaded with us in less than 10 minutes - all while the pilots were taking a cup of coffee !

The 460 mete runway appeared incredibly short particularly when the end of the runway plummets over a steep drop, but with full throttle we basted over the void with at least 10 meters 2 feet and 3 inches to spare !

The flight to Kathmandu was all of 40 minutes - the peaks we'd crossed on trek now appeared like "black icebergs" piercing the fully clouded sky while on Monika's side a vista of the remarkable Himalayas were evident !

Kathmandu was typically recognisable on approach by its smoke haze !  After landing we taxied to the airports extremity as a result of security arrangements in place for visiting Prime Ministers of sensitive nations Pakistan, India, Afghanistan, Bhutan, Maldives as part of an Asian economic cooperative !

The security arrangements extended to limiting road traffic and calling a 2 day holiday to co-incide with the summit making progress to our Hotel significantly easier

After 21 days on the go, a collective loss of 10+ kgs and a bag full of dirt encrusted clothes our first question at our Hotel desk was " when can we get our washing done" !

Day 22 - Lukla - "The trek comes to an end"!

It took an effort to get underway early given the morning cold but uncertainty over flights leaving Lukla because of security surrounding a Nepal hosted Asian forum dictated that we get to Lukla as soon as possible to sort things out !

So one last time we put on our dirt encrusted clothes and set to walking the stone laced paths surprisingly climbing 200 metres in altitude on our way to Lukla.


It only seemed like a few days since we'd last traipsed this route but this time the enthusiasm levels where slightly reduced as we looked forward to rest, a hot shower and some clean clothes.

Our final suspension bridges crossed we climbed into Lukla proving that those enhanced red blood cells were not yet in gear.

We had just enough energy left to avoid the many human "Mac" trucks coming the other way - how these guys are able to walk carrying their incredible loads is beyond me !

After 3 & 1/2 hours we finally entered Lukla past its entrance goumpa and a heap of low key shops, to round the perimeter of the famous Lukla airport to our hotel almost sitting within the grounds of the airport itself !

After 20 days, some 10 kms of climbing and 250+ kms we were finally done with Monika's effort being a true inspiration !

A coke on our hotels rooftop, an arvo spent resting and taking coffee at the local Lukla Starbucks and all that remained was to celebrate with our porter and guide over dinner and a few beers !

So many amazing sights and memories and one hell of a trek !

Now all we have to is to leave safely from the airport that has the ominous tag as one off the  most dangerous in the world !

Day 21 - Phakding - " So close to the end" !

It's the town with the name that can bring a lot of westerners undone trying to pronounce yet after only 5 hours of walking it signalled the end but one day to our trek !

Our descent from Namache was such a delight after the ascent we'd struggled with over a week before !

There were still the frequent yak herds that stirred up chocking dust and the human "Mac" trucks to avoid i.e. porters carrying astonishing loads uphill - best was a guy carry 12 slabs of beer in a little basket strapped to his head - the gas bottles were a good 2nd !

We retraced our steps crossing over the first of 9 suspension bridges for the day before heading down to the river with one final look back at Everest - predictably with 50 Japanese trekkers clammering to take the same photo !

After some lovely river valley scenery, a few climbs, passing back thru villages we'd already seen on the way up we took lunch in Monju with my ankle beginning to play up after 19 days of trying to place size 14 feet on size 7 rocks !

We reached Phadking about 3 in the afternoon taking an easy arvo rest before catching up with a few trekkers heading upwards over dinner !

Some were hoping we'd tell them that it wouldn't be so cold up high (we didn't lie) or that the affects of AMS were overstated but I guess its important to be pretty truthful!

We bumped in one bubbly Aussie girl travelling by herself who has fallen in love with Nepal having undertaken meditation courses and Tibetan style hands on healing that she applies back in Melbourne !
Most impressive though was her desire to help out a local orphanage in Pokahra - only in her mid 20s she has raised a few thousand dollars to donate  to the orphanage following her EBC trek and plans on doing likewise in the future ! A person on a great journey to help others  less fortunate !

For us its only 1 day to go !

Michael -

Mixed feelings with trip soon to end although ankle problem is sign that this ol body is wearing out fast !

Amazing to talk to the Melbourne girl Libby last night that has such a strong purpose in life despite such as young age

Looking forward to some warmth or moving to Antartica one or the other !

Monika -

So close to the end now I'm finally feeling strong in my leg finding the walking much easdirer even surprising our guide !

Great talking to fellow trekkers hope i haven't scared them off as they climb higher !

Libby our Melbourne girl is a real star !

Day 20 - Namache - " Back In civilisation" !

It was another freezing night / morning but at least yesterdays afternoon mist had lifted to give great views of Everest in the distant background !

We took a short time out of the morning to visit the Tenboche monastery (simple in decoration but a strong spiritual feeling ) before getting underway .

We descended from Tengboche straight back down to the river on a steep form of a goat track before climbing for an hour + straight back up the other side - this is so Nepal !

A morning cuppa provided some stunning valley views before we took an almost flat 90 min walk with Gompas on various corners into Namache the delightfully positioned village with its own in your face Mtn !

It felt like being back in civilization having a room with a hot shower and a western toilet - yet once again the guest house and common room paper thin walls meant temperatures soon plumetted down towards zero with the sun going down !

The hotel owner explained that in winter it gets so cold inside the hotel that the stock of bottled water often freeze !

We caught up with our good friend Birbal who has done heaps to make our trip successful and spent the night playing 500 this time as a foursome with our delightful porter SP on board ;

Michael -

A so Nepal day - straight steep down followed by straight steep up !

Beginning to worry about customs on return - Did you walk in any rural farm areas - "Yes on yak dung for 16 days straight" !

Monika -

OMG a hot shower after nearly a week without - the only drama being that you then had to put back on clothes that are now walking by themselves !

Finally also a good bed with most over here resembling the paths we walk on - hard & lumpy !

Day 19 - Tenboche - " These socks are made for walking "!

It is really tough knowing that for the 4th day running you can't wash yourself as the ice cold temperatures effectively freeze all working taps and sometimes toilets !

With Monika on the recovery we headed down from 4,600 metres through Pherige across frozen streams of ice where Monija's first slip for the day succeeded in giving her a chilly rear end !

Again sun ( nearly 10 c) , again magic scenery as we made our way to Pangboche taking pity on the late season trekkers ascending knowing full well what was in store for them !

An urgent toilet call for self at our lunch restaurant uncovered about the worst toilet in the world - a simple hole in the ground and a bucketful of leaves to cover your doings with no water to wash your hands ..maybe that's what the leaves were for !

We listended to oiur guides rendition of a few western songs before heading down to the river where Monika took her 2nd fall for the day in slippery dusty soil - no damage done fortunately !?

Our last section was an extrremely tough climb to Tenboche the village with the famous Buddhist Monastery perched on top of a hill with views of Everest & co.

Most major climbing expeditions pass through Tenboche to recieve blessings prioir to their climb !
Finally a guest house with a working tap and a western toilet - luxury as the body gets weary after so many days on the trail !

Michael -

My kingdom for a wash ! The use of baby wipes in lieu of a shower is getting a bit much !


 Was nice to breathe again after descending to 3,800 metres a drop of nearly 1,600 metres in 2 days !

Splashed out and went for the pizza menu option after so many days of sherpa (vegetable) stew ;

Monika -

I have mixed feelings - excited to descend but still disappointed at not making EBC !

Spent a lot of time on my backside with the two spills mentioned above - ths 3rd though to finish the day was equally as funny when I fell back down the steep guest house stairs landing softly thank goodness, on the blanket I was carrying !

Altitude Sickness !

In simple forms it can be just feeling lethargic or fluey or having a mild headache - in more serious forms it can make you feel like your head is in a vice and that you're about to projectile vomit - whatever form it can be fatal if untreated so in hindsight the decision to descend Monika was the right one !

AMS was a common issue as we found ourselves climbing higher. We'd sighted a couple of trekkers being assisted by Porter's to descend - we'd heard about the 8 helicopter evacuees at Gorakshep - we'd also heard about 6 UK teenagers forced to retreat after 4 came down with AMS at Goykio and we'd even witnessed the distress AMS can cause when our Japanese neighbor in Gorakshep awoke in a panic and started hyperventilating !

While the trek by itself is not overly tough its combination with altitude makes the EBC trek far from a walk in the park !

Day 18 - Everest Base Camp & Thukla - "a goal half realised" !

Despite a drug induced sleep it was obvious in the morning that Monika was in no condition to be trekking to Base Camp and in fact needed to descend asap !

Despite her despair Monika can take consolation in knowing that in reaching Gorakshep she had in fact reached the site of the original Everest Base Camp as established by Hillary and co in 1953 - a tremendous effort by her in trying conditions !

Plan B was put in place where Monika and our guide would descend to Thukla at 4,600 metres while I would head to Base Camp with our Porter SP then back track to catch up with Monika and Deepak.

With Monika heading down SP and self undertook the pretty tough (ascending through 5,400 metres) 2 hour trek to base camp from Gorakshep.

The final part was a descent thru a rock filled scree on a narrow path with falling rocks a real chance. We crossed a pock marked area of solid ice covered by dirt and rocks to reach the current base camp site right alongside the Khumbu Glacier !

My thrill of reaching EBC was in part dulled by Monika's non presence.

After venturing out on to the glacier to view the amazing ice structures we retraced our steps back to Gorakshep for lunch before departing for Thukla 5 hours behind Monika and Deepak.


What a relief after so many days to be heading down. Despite the odd ice cold dust storm we finally reached Thukla just after 4 p.m. with the sun starting to disappear behind the nearby Mtns providing a wonderful sentinel for the memorials on top of the pass.

Much to my relief we found Monika in a much better condition although disappointed, headache gone and her best appetite returned !

Michael -

The time spent at EBC was astonishing in terms of natural wonders and the nearby presence of the Everest climbing route. I'd completed my journey  but for climbers this would be only just the start - amazing !

Monika -

What a relief to be coming down despite my obvious disappointment. I was happy to feel much better and also for Michael to have reached EBC

Day 17 - Gorakshep - " The dream hangs by a thread"!

This was the day that promised so much yet ended in despair as we closed in on Everest Base Camp (EBC)

It was an early leave at 7.30 with the outside temperature having warmed up from -11 c to - 10 c according to our breakfast room thermometer and our frozen finger tips !

At nearly 5,000 metes even a gradual climb is taxing but 1/2 way to Gorakshep a short steep climb brought Monika undone with her moderate headache becoming severe which combined with nausea were classic altitude sickness symptoms !

As she lay on the ground distressed our guide administered a few pain killers -  there was not much more we could do than sit back and check for their effect.

The dilemma we faced was that Gorakshep was still a further 1 1/2 hours away and 200 metres higher in altitude meaning that any worsening of Monika's symptoms would make a backward retreat difficult !

Against that was Monika's strong desire to make base camp on behalf of her 2 causes !

With her condition slightly improving we reluctantly moved forward with a change in plans. With EBC out of reach today we took lunch in Gorakshep after which Monika was packed off to bed and put under surveillance of our porter SP (with phone reception) while our guide and self undertook an afternoon summit of Kala Patar at just under 5,600 metres. The summit  provided stunning views of Everest, Base Camp, surrounding Mtns and the Khumbu Glacier !

The trail to the top of Kala Pattar  

Back down we established that Monika's condition had neither improved or worsened meaning that an overnight stay in Gorakshep was now on the cards !

Not helping Monika was an afternoon panic attack by a Japanese tourist next door because of breathing issues that had me scurrying for help !

It's now a matter of wait and see but it appears that Monika's dream of reaching Base Camp may be over !

Michael -

I've never been so cold with the sun out as we departed in -10 c conditions !

Monika's "turn"was devastating to watch - i'd be happy to turn around if needed but Monika's desire to reach EBC is strong so we'll just have to see how she progresses overnight

Monika -

It was the day from hell  - i can't believe I'm in the condition I am . I'd started so well from Labouche with little sign of the troubles ahead - all I can now think of is letting people down if I'm unable to continue !

Day 16 - Labouche - " Breathing through your Ears" !

It was a tough climbing day as we gained nearly 800 metres in susny conditions before arriving in Labouche at 4,900 metres !

I thought we were already walking at a snails pace but was proved wrong when the really steep section from Thukla after lunch had me gking half as slow again - it was only the use of the old bike adage of never look up when going up a steep hill that me over the line.


Monika was fairing better although trailing behind and it was with great relief that we both finally made it over the Thukla Pass which provided stunning views of  Mtns and Valleys and is also poignantly the sight of various stone memorials to climbers that have lost their lives on Everest - Scott Fishers was the most recognizable as a result of publicity surrounding the 1996 Everest disaster
!

The uphill push to Labouche took as alongside an old Glacial morain.

It was with great pleasure that we arrived after a shortish day at Labouche just after 2.30 p.m with the sun still out

With the temperature predictably plummeting after the sun disappeared it was back to 500 around the fire as we pysced ourselves up for tomorrow's big push to Everest Base Camp after so many days on the trail !

Michael -

Haven't quite perfected breathing through my ears yet so find myself gasping quite frequently at altitude

Its great to see Monika doing a fab job despite a few grumbles along the way and she's determined to make it to base camp for her causes !

Monika -

More amazing scenery - you feel like you can almost touch the Mtns they are so close

Now that we have hit the snow & ice line the morning temperatures are freezing making any form of movement painful !

It's only 1 day to base camp - yoo hoo !

Day 15 - Dingbouche - Acclimatization Day !

It was nice to sleep in until the ice on the inside of our bedroom window reminded us of how bloody cold it was in our room !

We may have made breakfast a little earlier but some clown had slid the latch on the outside of our door effectively locking us in !

After much pounding our Finnish next door neighbor finally released us (he had been listening to music) - in thanking him he passed on the news that 8 trekkers had been evacuated from Gorakshep (our destination) because of altitude sickness the day he had passed through - ominous news for us !

With further altitude gain to be made we headed up a steep nearby hill with our guide Deepak to hopefully acclimatize ourselves for the days ahead.

The climb was tough but afforded great views of two valleys and the snow capped Mtns

There was nothing more to do for the day than take lunch and raid some nearby shops (a loose definition) for chocolate supplies before retiring to our guest house which amazingly had an attached French Bakery that served pastries & Coffees including a "goodish" Cupauchino.

Our evening was spent teaching our guide how to play 500 around our yak dung fueled fire !
It's back on the trail again tomorrow !