Day 17 - Gorakshep - " The dream hangs by a thread"!

This was the day that promised so much yet ended in despair as we closed in on Everest Base Camp (EBC)

It was an early leave at 7.30 with the outside temperature having warmed up from -11 c to - 10 c according to our breakfast room thermometer and our frozen finger tips !

At nearly 5,000 metes even a gradual climb is taxing but 1/2 way to Gorakshep a short steep climb brought Monika undone with her moderate headache becoming severe which combined with nausea were classic altitude sickness symptoms !

As she lay on the ground distressed our guide administered a few pain killers -  there was not much more we could do than sit back and check for their effect.

The dilemma we faced was that Gorakshep was still a further 1 1/2 hours away and 200 metres higher in altitude meaning that any worsening of Monika's symptoms would make a backward retreat difficult !

Against that was Monika's strong desire to make base camp on behalf of her 2 causes !

With her condition slightly improving we reluctantly moved forward with a change in plans. With EBC out of reach today we took lunch in Gorakshep after which Monika was packed off to bed and put under surveillance of our porter SP (with phone reception) while our guide and self undertook an afternoon summit of Kala Patar at just under 5,600 metres. The summit  provided stunning views of Everest, Base Camp, surrounding Mtns and the Khumbu Glacier !

The trail to the top of Kala Pattar  

Back down we established that Monika's condition had neither improved or worsened meaning that an overnight stay in Gorakshep was now on the cards !

Not helping Monika was an afternoon panic attack by a Japanese tourist next door because of breathing issues that had me scurrying for help !

It's now a matter of wait and see but it appears that Monika's dream of reaching Base Camp may be over !

Michael -

I've never been so cold with the sun out as we departed in -10 c conditions !

Monika's "turn"was devastating to watch - i'd be happy to turn around if needed but Monika's desire to reach EBC is strong so we'll just have to see how she progresses overnight

Monika -

It was the day from hell  - i can't believe I'm in the condition I am . I'd started so well from Labouche with little sign of the troubles ahead - all I can now think of is letting people down if I'm unable to continue !